Shopping in Istanbul: bazaars, streets and malls

Nisantasi on the European side and Bagdat Street on the Asian side are the centres of brand shopping. In malls prices are fixed, there is no haggling, and being indoors keeps you clear of the weather. Families with children usually pick these in summer heat or on a rainy day.

By the end of a shopping day there are usually more bags than expected. This is where having the car at your disposal helps: leave the bags in it and carry on. For large purchases such as carpets, sellers arrange shipping; check your own country's import rules in advance.

Istanbul is where you can find everything, but not where everything is best. The Grand Bazaar is for carpets, gold, leather and souvenirs; the Spice Bazaar for spices, Turkish delight and nuts. Nişantaşı and İstinye Park are for brands, while Osmanbey is the wholesale textile district — some shops sell retail too, but haggling and cash are expected.

Bursa means silk and towels. Koza Han has been a silk market for centuries and still sells silk scarves; Bursa towels and bathrobes are cheaper and better than elsewhere in Türkiye. Candied chestnuts are bought here too.

Shopping in Antalya is touristic: souvenirs in Kaleiçi, brands in the large malls. Leather and jewellery shops may have arrangements with tours; buy without hurrying and after comparing.

Bodrum is for handmade sandals, sea-themed jewellery and boutique clothing. Prices run above Istanbul because it is seasonal and touristic.

What you buy in Trabzon is food: tea, hazelnuts, honey and cornmeal. Genuine highland honey is expensive — very cheap highland honey is not highland honey.

Haggling does not apply everywhere. In malls, chain stores and supermarkets the price is fixed; trying to bargain only wastes time. In the Grand Bazaar, neighbourhood markets and small souvenir shops, haggling is expected and not doing it means overpaying.

The simple rule: when you hear the first price, take time to think and visit two more shops. The price of the same item can vary noticeably within the bazaar, and the seller expects you to buy from the first shop you saw. If you are firm, moving to leave usually brings the price down.

On large purchases you are entitled to a tax refund. Above a certain amount, ask the shop for the invoice and the refund form; you have it stamped at customs before departure at the airport and collect the payment. Forgetting to take the form cannot be fixed afterwards, so ask at the moment of purchase.

Let us be plain about counterfeits: there are places in Türkiye selling fake branded goods and they are cheap. They can cause problems at customs when leaving the country; if you buy them knowingly, factor that in.